Category Archives: pants

Orchid Embroidered Inseam jeans


It’s been a crazy couple of weeks and not a lot of output around here towards any end. I did finally get around to finishing my orchid jeans.  It was fun to experiment with some hand embroidery.


My design is more or less triangular running from the knee of the inseam down around to the front and down around towards the back.  I was going for an abstract aster design.  As I started drawing out a design, it quickly became obvious that a random pattern just looked a little off, so using my sewing room window as a light box, I repeated my pattern.  It’s not a perfect repeat, but the spacing and the designs are close to that. I was going to use white thread, but as I looked at the embroidery thread in the store, the contrast just seemed too much, so I went for tone-on-tone. The pattern is Burdastyle 7-2010-104.  The pattern is the same as model 103, but the grain for the waistband is different between the two patterns.  I couldn’t figure out why you would want a straight vs. cross grain cut waistband.  I understand that one stretches more than the other, but the patterns are identical and they call for the same type of fabric.  What were you thinking Burda?  I was reminded of a thread a while back on Jalie 2908 and the bias cut waistband on that pattern.  My friend Linda proposed that perhaps you could cut one straight grain and one cross grain waistband just like you would in a bra.  I tell you what, with the grain going in opposite directions, that waistband is going NOWHERE.  This is by far the most stable waistband I’ve ever made–stable without adding the interfacing which I find abhorrent in waistbands.  And, the contoured pieces add even more shaping.  Win! Also, I really like the 2 part back.


The back seam doesn’t hit me where I need the extra shaping (or lack of perhaps), but the overall fit is better than any other pants I’ve attempted thus far.  I should note that the wrinkles are from the fabric itself–a stretch cotton twill.  I swear, you breathe on it and it wrinkles.  Fresh out of the laundry, these fit amazingly, but walking about all day does have a toll on these things…


My only beef with the fit is that these are more high-waisted than I’m comfortable with.  I thought about lowering the rise, and I’m kicking myself for not bothering to mess around with the pockets.  I HATE extra fabric at my navel.  These are great walking around pants, but that extra fabric makes it uncomfortable for me to sit down in despite the fit being really good. It’s definitely fun having a pair of skinny jeans around to keep my legs warm.  I can stuff my bootcut jeans into my boots, but they do me no good inside the house on the many recent subzero days we’ve had here recently.  I look forward to spring and being able to wear these with flats.  Oh that I could find more pretty colored denim like this.

My full review is here.

Sneak Peek at my new jeans


Can’t finish them until next week, but these jeans are going to be a fun adventure into hand embroidery.  Plus they’re a pale orchid–yay purple jeans!  I got the fit down probably better than I ever have, and the legs are all constructed and ready for embroidery.

On a side note, I was in Houston last weekend for this and found zero fabric.  Zero.  I went to High Fashion Fabrics downtown and was met with way too much formal fabric and truly lovely fabric that was a mere $120/yd (?!).  Empty-handed I left.  Then I went to Universal Fabric in Rice Village which was crammed to the rafters with fabric, but they were all stacked vertically on rolls and bolts.  To find anything you’d literally have to dig, and there was a miserable smell of decay that was giving me a headache in there.  But there were gorgeous unique buttons if you decided you were in a button-buying mood.  I was not.

I did learn one thing in both stores: real Missoni is amazing.  It feels absolutely beautiful–light and warm and smooth.  It is fabric that has a presence, and I now understand the price of it.  Good thing for me, Missoni will probably never produce a knit in my colors…my coloring is decidedly un-Italian.  Sad.

Bright and sporty

diagonal fold here is not a fit problem, it’s how I’m standing.

For the last couple of years, I’ve been on a mad hunt for warm winter knits.  It gets cold in our house and having sweaters for layering is always a good idea in CO.  After my last couple of shopping ventures, I finally have a good stash of 5 different sweater and sweatshirt knits that should fill some serious gaps in my cold weather wardrobe.

First up is this sweatshirt from sweatshirt fleece I picked up at Vogue Fabrics (Evanston store).  I’d bought Burda 7434 a couple of years ago but never really came across the right fabric.  I like the sporty ribbon casing.  The pattern has all of these pleats–2 in the front armscye, 2 in each sleeve, and 2 on the front and back that chevron at the side seams (they also chevron on the sleeve, though it’s less obvious).  There’s also a sleeve pleat + topstitching detail.

I kind of see why this pattern hasn’t been reviewed before…finding the right fabric is a bit problematic.  The pleats require some drape so they flow nicely, but the sleeve topstitching seems to suggest a relatively stable fabric.  It’s also a fairly figure conscious top which seems to negate the pleat/drape aspect a little.

The good:  my fabric is delightfully cozy in this pattern.  It’s not too often that you come across a sweatshirt that is figure conscious, but this one is, and it brings the warmth of the fleecy side right next to me which really helps a cold girl out.  Also, the pleats chevroning at the side seams is a cool detail.  The directions in the pattern for the neck casing/tie are excellent.  Most Burda envelope instructions leave me scratching my head, but this pattern’s directions really work well.

The not so good: Not a fan of the pleat detail in the armscye–it really just looks like a gross fitting error.  Bust pleats don’t work if you’re over an A cup.  They just don’t.

The leggings!

I went looking for ITY at Denver Colorado Fabrics a few weeks ago, and for the first time, I came up with nothing (strange given how much ITY they typically have).  So I bought a couple of yards of something labeled “cotton/poly/spandex 4 way stretch knit” in “peach” from Ebay.  Buying fabric from Ebay is a bit of a shot in the dark.  This is slinky, not cotton anything, and it’s not “peach,” it’s nuclear cantaloupe.  BUT, it is comfortable, and it made a shockingly fast version of Burdastyle 1-2011-130.

This will be my TNT leggings pattern.  As you can see in the line drawing, it’s got good shaping below the knee, and the optional skirt allows for a lot of possibilities to mix and match and also just simplifies wardrobe options.  As much as I believe that leggings are NOT pants, the skirt makes these perhaps a little bit more respectable.  Nuclear cantaloupe is good for kicking around the house, but I will be looking for better colors NOT on Ebay in the future.

My review of the sweatshirt is here, and my review of the leggings is here.

Side laced floral jeans


2 weeks ago I endured a miserable jeans shopping experience.  I was a little gun-shy about making another pair because my last pair have never been wearable.  See, somewhere between 5 and 7 months postpartum, every time I have just dropped 5 pounds for no reason.  I made said jeans in this period and 5 pounds and me and pants…well, I’ve found myself in need of jeans as these are the only ones that don’t fall off me, and even they are a little loose.

As I’m going from store to store on this particular bad day, I was struck not only by how horribly RTW jeans fit (“craaaaazy crotches” paired with headache and tears), but how boring they are.  I was met with row after row of dark jeans with nothing to distinguish them but back pocket embroidery.  Loft had some better options, but their back crotch poofs out all along the seam on me…strange If I needed something to remind myself that I can sew jeans and that I like the process of designing a new pair, honey that day pushed me over the edge.


I got home and looked through my stash and remembered this super fun floral denim I picked up at Denver Fabrics some months ago.  In my blind anger over the day, I literally threw the denim in the wash and thought, hey, I can add some eyelets and lace up the side seams.  Since I’d already done the pattern work on Jalie 2908 of adding a side seam vent on my designer pastiche jeans, I left the side seam as is, figuring I could add the eyelets where the buttons would have been.  Because vents are just that and not slits, the opening is completely covered–important for this time of year.  I didn’t want any kind of cool air running up my legs.  I bought the eyelets and the setter from here, though I had another tiny eyelet anvil from a Dritz kit which really helped the process.  I purposely made the lacing uneven for looks.  Because this is purely decorative lacing, this works fine.


I hand-embroidered the pockets a little with a running stitch, echoing the meandering of the floral pattern.


I was hoping to add eyelets in the place of the rivets, but there were too many layers of fabric to go through, so I used my standard silver rivets.  I’m making a mental note that I should buy some gold ones too as they would have worked better with this fabric.


For the life of me I cannot get rid of the wrinkle where my bum meets my legs, but the fit below and above that point looks good, and Lord knows that the fit is still way better than what I can buy.  I think I will puzzle out things with my fit group some more.


I’m glad that I took the time to just make a pair of jeans.  The process is so much more rewarding for me than buying something, and this time the results proved to be equally more rewarding.

Yet another Jalie 2908 pattern review here!


A spring skirt for fall + ivory leggings


A while ago Lynne of Wonderfully Made made this amazing green and blue striped skirt inspired by Michael Kors’ Spring 2013 collection.  I loved how she changed the direction of the stripe in the godets and how she made a knit fabric look so dressy.  I filed away the memory of this skirt resolving to knock off hers if I ever came across the right knit.

As it happened, when I visited Needle Nook Fabrics in Wichita in August, I walked away with 2.5 yards of this lovely white and peachish cotton knit (I believe there’s a little poly in this if I remember correctly, but I could be wrong).

Lynne modified a Simplicity pattern for her skirt, but per my now usual process, I won’t buy another pattern until I’ve first gone through all my Burda magazines to see if there’s something there first.  Burda came through for me in Burdastyle 1-2012-104.  I added the black so the style lines show up better:


The pattern is just a simple underlined pencil skirt.  The seams were where I wanted them to be, and the simple addition of godets would get what I was looking for.  Thankfully I muslined this because I missed the fact that this is a below the knee AND high waisted skirt.  I shortened it by 3″ in the body and then because I was making an elastic waist, I used the excess length in the high waist to simply fold over the top of my elastic.  No more high waist!  I also added a little extra width in the side seams so that I would have enough play to gather into the elastic.

My godets are 6″ wide and 10″ tall.  Lynne’s extended all the way to the top of her skirt.  I missed that bit of genius, so my skirt required a lot of stripe matching.  Thankfully, this particular knit had no vertical stretch, so stripe matching was actually quite easy.


At first, I made a full lining out of a stretch mesh, but it puckered under the serger, and the puckers could be seen under the skirt, and the mesh was a nude beige color which dulled the appearance of the white of the stripe considerably.

I had a thin white knit that I could have used for a second lining but 1)I didn’t want to go through the business of making a second lining and 2)I thought that another knit would result in a too-heavy skirt.  It occurred to me that I had an old slip that I could try.  This worked out so well it will be my go to solution for simple skirt linings from now on.

The slip is not only extremely light weight, it’s also completely opaque, allowing the brightness of this knit to shine through without interference.  To boot, the slip is finished at the hem with some cute edging lace.  To sew it into the waistband, I cut off the slip’s elastic, matched the CF and CB to the skirt’s and gathered the slip between those points.  I hand-basted the slip and the skirt together and then proceeded with applying my elastic.  Simple and unfussy.


This time of year, it’s good to have leggings around.  I had this ivory knit in my stash and decided to have a go at Burdastyle 1-2011-130.  There’s not much to say about these leggings except I can see myself making about a million of them.  There’s 3 seams here.  And an elastic waist, and a hem and you’re done.  Ready to go under anything to make it more season-appropriate or to add an extra layer of warmth.

I will review the leggings after I’ve photographed the leggings/skirt combo also in the same issue that I’m wearing as I type, but for now, my full review of the skirt is here.


Sage and seafoam side stripe jeans


Whew, these jeans were a project.  Perhaps waiting for the sewing room to be fixed (it finally is!) has given me a certain amount of patience, but at any rate, I’ve enjoyed working out every last detail that went into these.

My inspiration for these jeans came in the way of “The Racer” jean by Rag and Bone:

I love the stripe in the side panels, and I’m always a fan of zippers in the side seams for decoration.  But in the spring, I had tried on these pretty pale green jeans at LOFT

and had green jeans stuck in my mind.

I thought originally I’d just skinny up the legs on my Jalie 2908s and be done, but I discovered a pretty big fit issue that I needed to fix. The side seams were hanging crooked, and since my side seams were going to be embellished with vertical stripes, I had to go back to square one.

The side seams were a little straighter in these BWOF 8-2008-122 jeans, so I started with that pattern as a base. I originally thought that my front thigh was pulling the side seam backwards (indeed I carry all my weight in my thighs). I cut a muslin with a front 2 sizes larger and then did a full front thigh adjustment, but it just didn’t seem right to be adding that much fabric. How on earth did I fit into the other pair in the first place? It didn’t make sense. So I asked my friend Linda for help and we spent an entire Saturday figuring out the deal. It turns out I needed a wedge of extra length across my bum across the CB seam–about 1.25″, tapering to nothing at the side seams. It was miraculous, but that released the tension at the side seam and it was hanging straight again.  We tweaked some other things, but the bum wedge was the most dramatic change.  (Only in a post about pants is “bum wedge” not a weird thing to say…)


Since the BWOF pattern has a back welt, darts and angled front pockets, I added a back yoke, using my Jalie pattern as a guide for drafting the yoke. I also borrowed the back pockets from the Jalie jeans. I changed the front pockets into jeans style pockets instead of the angled pockets they were originally. The front pockets are a hybrid of Vogue 1034 and my Jalies. The pockets are a little wider than my Jalies but not quite as wide as the Vogue jeans. The coin pocket is just a little rectangle of denim, all pressed under and topstitched.


In the muslin process, it occurred to me that the vertical stripes were an optical illusion on the inspiration pair. There’s no way that you can just sew straight stripes on at the side seam and have them hang straight because your hip is curved. So to draft the panels, I made strips 1.25″ + SA wide down the hip, following the curve into the calf area 11.125″ above the hem. They look like little elbows, but I was amazed to find out that indeed they did hang straight when sewn.


I could not use my denim as the contrast because it would’ve been too bulky for my machine, so I bought some plain white broadcloth and after extensive swatching,


Martha and me would have had quite the afternoon.

I used a weak dye solution (1/16 tsp RIT kelly green and 1/16 tsp RIT teal in 1 cup water) to come up with the seafoam color I used for the middle stripes. To sew them, I seamed the front two, pressed the raw edges under. Then I hand basted them into place along the sides and tops and topstitched the pressed edges. From there, the pieces are treated as one with the fronts and backs.


My process for the side seam zippers was pretty similar to this tutorial by Pattern Runway.


The rivets are from Cawaiiland on Etsy. I’ve used them in the past and I like their rivets, and they give you enough to last for a really really long time for not a lot of money.


For the basic construction, I referred to Jalie 2908 because their instructions are so well written, particularly on the pockets. I did french seam the pocket bottoms because it makes for such a pretty pocket.  The vintage McCalls’ girls like pretty pockets:


This girl is admiring my fly.


Make it pretty, mmmkay!

I should note that the fabric is a sage green stretch bull denim from Denver Fabrics.  The side panels are from plain cotton broadcloth, and the pocket fabric and fly facing is a print of vintage McCall’s pattern girls in their sweet dresses that I got from Hancock’s eons ago.

These jeans were a big challenge, but I’m glad I went through it all.  I almost bought the jeans at LOFT, but mine fit better, the stripes are more fun, and the puzzle of putting it all together was a joy.

My full review is here, and you know I’m hitting you up for votes for PR’s Jeans Contest.  Vote for me!

Trio in browns

Fixing the sewing room leak is still a work in progress, but I’m still eeking out progress in my 1/3  of the room that is not taken over by the mess.


My linen shorts that I made last year fell to pieces (it’s always sad to learn that $5/yd linen is not a bargain), so I remade them in this pretty linen/rayon blend.  Denver Fabrics had it listed as 65% linen on the tube, and the higher linen content definitely shines through–it had lovely weight and crispness to it, but the rayon softens it just enough to be drapeable, and helps with the wrinkling issue.  To recap, this is  Burdastyle 3-2011-131.  In my original shorts, I swapped out the pocket, but this time I went with the as-drafted side inseam pockets.  They definitely poof open a little, but such is the nature of inseam pockets I suppose (which is why I avoided them in the first pair).  I did some hand stitching to keep the pockets from rolling outwards though, and they do sit nicely now, even if there’s that hair of poof.  I might opt for an angled pocket for the next pair.


The coup for me in these shorts was the welt pocket I added on the back.  I copied the placement from another Burda pattern and used Peggy Sagers’ method that she shows in this video from It’s Sew Easy (welt demo starts at 6:52).  I’ve made many a welt, and two near perfect zippered welts, but there’s always something a little off on my regular welt pockets.  I have to say, this was the simplest and best welt I’ve made.  If you have nothing to put a welt on at the moment, do yourself a solid and practice on some scraps with this method because  it really does make for great results.


The other two pieces are Jalie’s newest patterns, but I’ll write more about those when I have time.  There’s some fit issues going on with the lace tee (user error) that I am hoping to fix.

I will also update my review on the shorts when I get a chance.  I had it all ready to go but then my Mom erased it accidentally while she was babysitting (dear PR, can we save edited reviews before they go live?).

Wovens and pregnancy, broken mirrors, and being easier on myself

It’s been wadder city around here (and crazy face making I guess–I blame my lack of sleep and very funny kids).  Well, not exactly wadder…more like really beautifully finished complete garments that biff it because my changing body changes faster than I can crank stuff out of my sewing room.

Exhibits A and B:  Burda 7198, theoretically a great top for maternity–built in A-line shape with sweet little godets in the side seams.  Problem: my cup size grew between my muslin and getting both versions sewn, so I need more width in my upper chest that I usually don’t.  The stress point being the placket, split on the stronger cotton chambray in the wash and shredded in the wearing (yay for having an undershirt on that day) on the poly-masquerading-as-silk-and-I’m-so-sad-that-it-did-because-it’s-such-a-pretty-print.  

Solution:  as dull as it is at times to stick to knit tops during pregnancy, that give inherent in the fabric prevents tragic breakdowns like these plackets that result in wasted time and energy.  If you really want a woven maternity top, just buy it; if it’s ultra boring (because you know it will be), buy a white one and dye it.

Exhibit C: The Saggy Bottom Girl and Burdastyle 6-2010-129 (Saints alive!  Have I learned nothing about fitting pants?!)

Problem: I only pinched out 1/2″ in the back crotch and didn’t do my usual part 2 alteration to fix the same issue (cut the inseam a size smaller).  This coupled with overestimating how big my hips really are (I cut a 40–should have gone for the 38, possibly a 36 with some added room for my hips–Burda maternity sizes are larger), and picking a thin but sturdy denim, I have cones off my back end.  Cones, people.  I have only 8 more weeks, and I was very conservative in fitting my flat backside because I was afraid that I’d overfit and then not have anything in the last couple weeks.  I also couldn’t see too well to really get an idea of what I needed to do because several weeks ago #1 broke my small full-length mirror I use for fitting (he was walking on it–thankfully, on the backside and it was covered with fabric on the wrong side because I used to use it as art in our apartment and took it down when I needed to fit–so no bleeding child, just a broken mirror).  He’s been paying me back a quarter at a time (thankfully, it was a $10 purchase–easily the cheapest thing he could have wrecked in my sewing room), and he finally finished yesterday.  Bright side: my topstitching is great on these jeans, and I really like the color of this denim, so saggy bottom or not, I’m going to enjoy these.  

Solution: Don’t fit pants without the aid of at least 2 mirrors that give you a proper view of your tushy.

It’s really hard for me not to take all of this personally.  I’m the type that likes to do everything excellently, and I generally stink at realizing that there are times that my ability to do just that is limited and that that in and of itself is not some sort of moral failing.  The thing is I can’t control everything that happens anywhere–I can let it get me down, or I can wear my saggy bottom but smashingly pink topstitched jeans with pride, knowing that someday–soon, likely, I’ll get back to where I want to be.  Failure is part of the creative process.  Failure is part of the creative process.  Blech…I could use less failure.

Frankenpatterning for better shorts

When I was pregnant with the boys, I didn’t have a choice not to wear maternity pants.  I started sewing when I was pregnant with Noah because of the lack of maternity clothes in non-soul-killing colors and prints, and I couldn’t fit pants yet when I was pregnant with Sam.  I remember wearing this particular pair of Old Navy maternity jeans and feeling, well, fat with all of the extra fabric hanging off of my legs in the back and I remember vowing to figure out how to fit pants Scarlett O’Hara as God is my witness style.

So after the first trimester sleepiness has gradually worn off and after we’ve all started to get better from the summer colds we’ve managed to get, I was going to figure out some shorts to get me through the remainder of this summer.

I initially muslined a pair of Kwik Sew 3324 shorts, but they didn’t pan out.  They were way way too big for where I’m at, and the panel had no shaping at the side seams where I really need it.  It occurred to me to pull out my Burda 3-2011-131 shorts that I outgrew in June and see how I could make them work for where I’m at now since the fit was good on those.  Already made garments count as muslins too!

According to what was going on, I needed to add at the side seams about 3/4″, and then I’d need a rib knit panel tall 3.5″ at CF and about 2.5″ at CB (I just measured in both places to where I wanted the top of the pants to hit).

I took out Burdastyle 6-2010-129 and grabbed the panel, just cutting it down to what I needed and gambling that I could just sew it to the top of the shorts without any need for alteration.  This panel has a little bit of shaping at the side seams, so I figured that it would work better for me over the straight-sided side seams of the Kwik Sew.  I sewed a quick muslin just in case and it worked like a charm.  On #1, the linen version, the panel + elastic enclosed inside for more support needed to be a little more snug between the loose weave factor of linen and the stretch-out factor that just happens in knits on your bottom half over the course of the day.  They’re still way crazy comfortable and cool, and the extra space in the waist will probably serve me well when I’m still trying to wear these next month.

I used a heavy linen chambray I picked up at Denver Fabrics a couple weeks ago on a trip with my good non-sewing friend.  Mentioning that I could no longer stand sitting around the house in workout shorts, she wasn’t letting me leave without some quality fabric for shorts, and this fits the bill nicely.  I added some denim-style topstitching because you all know I’m a sucker for contrasting thread.

I also grabbed a lightweight denim for another pair.  It has a similar cross dyed texture as the denim and it has more drape and flow than most denims, which was perfect not only for the shorts but for the season.  It definitely wrinkles more than most denims as you can see, but I care not.  I resisted the temptation to buy more yardage only because come fall this fabric will not work for actual jeans and I can’t stash denim.  It’s the first thing to go in the stash.  I become too obsessed with it.

Allow me to be smug about the back fit.  It feels simultaneously vain and triumphant to know that I won’t have to have yards of fabric flapping in the wind behind me this pregnancy.

I made the panel a little smaller at the side seams, and used a little less elastic, stretching to fit, making this pair much better fitting.  I also added side vents in this pair via one of the Power Sewing videos (thanks Lisa for the b-day gift of the subscription!).

Mostly, this was a great project to help my sewing mojo working.  I feel like the world is my oyster 9 months out of the year in the creativity department, but summer I’m a mondo pile of blah.  And being pregnant has not helped.  Heat fries my brain, but the promise of fall and jeans (can you tell I’m excited about them?) and shirts with actual sleeves and the hope of being able to sew knit dresses I won’t suffocate in keeps me going.

Do you have a season when you’re out to lunch creatively speaking?

Off to get caught up on t-shirts for the project!  I finished one and about to get started on another which will get me caught up and back on track.

Foot tray for jeans

I’ve been thinking about this for a while, but as it’s a little lengthy to put in my probably already lengthy posts about any given pair of jeans, I thought I’d let it be it’s own little thing.  When you’re making jeans, there’s a lot in play.  You have lots of different feet you need for different purposes plus at least 2 different kinds of thread and possibly 2 different kinds of needles if you use a denim double needle.

Here’s what I use:

  1. all-purpose foot–for non-topstitched seams
  2. applique foot–for topstitching the fly and for bartacking.  I prefer it over the ap foot because it is clear, so you can really see where you’re going
  3. ditch quilting foot or blind hem foot–both of these feet have a guide that follows along a seam and allows you to stitch right at the edge of a seam (one sews closer than the other, but they do the same thing).  Either foot lets you do the first pass of topstitching on a seam
  4. 1/4″ foot–this foot also has a guide like the ditch quilting or blind hem foot, but it stitches a little farther from the edge of the seam where the guide is riding.  This helps you make your second pass for topstitching seams.
  5. zipper foot–for installing your fly
  6. buttonholer–to make a buttonhole for your tack button
  7. topstitching thread–heavier than regular thread and probably a constrasting color
  8. normal thread–for seams

After this pair, I’ve figured out how to simply keep things organized so it’s readily accessible.  I don’t doubt that this pair was my fastest constructed jeans to date partly because of this.

My solution to keep everything in one spot so that it’s ready to go when I need it is to take all of the feet needed out of the foot box and store everything on the lid to my foot box.  It’s simple, and I was surprised how much time it saved me.

How do you keep yourself organized for big projects?

P.S.:  You can vote for my shibori zippered jeans here.

And lastly, some quick MMM shots.

Day 17: Vogue 1027 in mocha jersey.  I’ve lost a lot of weight since I first made this, but I still love how instantly polished I feel in it, despite it being a color that I wouldn’t normally choose on any planet.  It goes with every accessory I own and it has such a pretty silhouette.  I could even run after the kids at the park in it without worrying about a floor show.

Day 18:  Boden Twist top knockoff, Ottobre 5-2007-9 in bleach dyed twill.