I think this last issue of Ottobre Woman (5/2014) has easily been my favorite. These jeans are the 4th pattern I’ve made from this issue, which statistically speaking puts it in a favorite category. One of the patterns that caught my eye was #19, the skinny jeans in stretch velvet.
The pattern itself is really well put together. The fly shield pattern piece was too tiny to cover the zipper, but that was easily solved by cutting out a larger rectangle and trimming it to fit. I like that this pattern is low rise. High rise pants and skirts feel very constricting to me, so I’m glad when I can find jeans patterns that have the low rise option. In truth, it was TOO low rise in the back, so I added 1/2″ of height at center back on the yoke, tapering to 0 at the side seam. Problem solved! I also had to shorten the length by 2 3/8″. Other than that, I changed nothing. I’m not 100% sure of the fit…
When I did my muslin for this pattern, by some miracle I did not need a flat seat adjustment. I’m still not sure if I need one or not on these jeans because this fabric tends to break along the woven print lines–making it’s own wrinkles. So is it the pants wrinkling or the quirky fabric? Who knows. I’ll take my muslin and these pants to my fitting group at the end of the month and try to figure it out.
With Jungle January upon us, it was the time to use this Nanette Lepore stretch sateen with giraffe print woven throughout that I bought from Apple Annie last year when it was on sale. It’s quite firm but with good recovery, and it was lovely to sew. It took to topstitching like the proverbial fish to water. Some sateens show every last
mistake design feature, but this one is quite forgiving with the one quibbly little quirk of wrinkling along the print lines.
For the topstitching, I set up my Singer 201-2. This was my first real project with the Singer. The stitch quality on that old girl is a thing to behold. At first I was cautious with topstitching because I’m used to the safety net provided by my Janome’s excellent guide feet (the ditch quilting foot and 1/4″ foot, specifically). Those feet each have a metal guide that runs along the edge of the fabric (or in a seam), so it’s child’s play to get perfect rows of topstitching. The Singer has no such luxury. Still, I quickly figured out that I needed to adjust my focus to the needle for the edgestitching. Then I used the edge of the presser foot for the second row of topstitching. When I’ve eyeballed on my Janome, things haven’t gone so well. So either from experience or having a machine that can eat multiple layers of denim like cotton candy, I’m really pleased with how the topstitching came out.
So with perhaps some more tweaking to come, I think I found my skinny jeans pattern.
My full review of this great pattern is here.