Tag Archives: Jalie

Rose Lace tee

roselaceteeclose

Some time ago, I spied the Daisy Lace tee at J. Crew.

Daisy lace three-quarter sleeve tee jcrew

I liked the idea of it so much that I went to the store and tried it on and realized that I am not the type of person to shop at J. Crew as the thought of paying $68 for a tee shirt (even one with high quality cotton lace) is cruhaaazy.  Plus the fit was terrible.  $68 for a bad fit?  No thank you.

I couldn’t find a cotton lace with a daisy motif, but I was able to get my hands on a nice rose lace.  I overlayed it on top of my TNT t-shirt (cut in a white bamboo knit I bought in Chicago that I only realized that I overpaid for–the cutter told me she would only pay $5/yd instead of the $15/yd it was marked…I probably could have bargained with her, but I didn’t realize it in the moment because I’m dense like that) with my Ottobre scoop neck variant.  I marked the motifs I wanted to zigzag around with a Crayola fine tip marker because they’re 100% washable.  So washable, I just barely rinsed out the marks in my sink!

I allowed a little extra 1/4″ in the side seams since the lace has no stretch.  I basted it into place and stitched it down with a narrow zigzag, trimming the excess away.  I also lined this top with a nice lightweight mesh netting as the white was just a hair transparent (aren’t all white knits sheer?) and prone to wrinkling.

roselaceteeensemble

This was on the more expensive end of tops that I’ve made because my materials were more pricey than what I usually use, but I still came in far under the inspiration price and my shirt is made better than the J. Crew one was too.  I’m loving this as a spring basic.  The lace is ultra girly and the white goes with everything!  Yay for classy t-shirts!

Guilio Cesare lace knit top

giuliocesare

Happy Thanksgiving all!  I hope everyone has a wonderful and beautiful time with the people you love.

And hello neglected blog.  Life has been busy here.  Still sewing, but healing from an ulcer has kind of taken over my writing energy.  I’m making great discoveries in my other favorite place (the kitchen) with fermented foods and just adding more veg to my life.  I think ultimately, this whole thing will be for the better of me and my family, but for now, it’s often an energy suck.  I’m starting to have hope that things are getting better, and definitely cooking and sewing are helping keep my mind and my hands busy when I’m feeling the most frustrated and discouraged by this process.  That and scripture and Bible study are keeping me from losing it.

No, strike that, I’ve lost it many times since I started feeling bad after my youngest was born, but really since March.  I haven’t written about it before because who wants to know about the nitty gritty of people’s digestive problems?  But in my frustration, the promise of Psalm 121:3 has been really near my heart, “He will not allow your foot to slip; your Protector will not slumber.”  So often I’ve needed that encouragement.  I’m beginning to see hope.  I had no idea it would look like a cabbage…

But I was excited about this tee.  I feel like more of my clothes should be inspired by any of the many operas that I watch and listen to.  I took the inspiration from the Met’s recent production by David McVicar of Handel’s Guilio Cesare in this dress worn here by Patricia Bardon as Cornelia.

Brigitte Reiffenstuel really designed some gorgeous costumes for this production ranging from Cleopatra’s glow in the dark bling to jodhpurs paired with fantastic military jackets (oh, the swish of tailored wool!) that make you believe that jodhpurs are actually wearable, but this dress really stood out for me.  The sleeve as far as I could tell has at least 2 layers of lace and the motifs are just allowed to hang freely down Cornelia’s arms…it’s perfect for the elegant, feminine, strong lady that Cornelia is…and it stands as a sharp contrast to the torture that she has to go through later in the opera.

I took my TNT t-shirt (Jalie 2921) + a scoop neck from an Ottobre pattern, and added a yoke of lace that I backed with a gold-flecked camel knit.  The ivory tube knit and the gold both came from Needle Nook and the lace I bought at the last sewing expo here.  Because Jalie uses the same block for their t-shirts, I knew that the flutter sleeve from Jalie 2787 would fit fine in the armscye.  It being November, I wasn’t going to leave the sleeve unlined, and it fit my inspiration to make a double layer sleeve again with the gold knit.  I like how the lace stands out from the rest of the garment in contrast to the slim-fitting gold sleeve beneath.

I hemmed the lace with a decorative scallop stitch.  Simple, but effective.  So that the lace didn’t get sucked down into the machine, I used toilet paper as a stabilizer per these instructions.  Brilliant–I will do that again as it pulls out much more easily than tissue paper.

Certainly my efforts here are more humble than a Met production, but I always enjoy a good t-shirt, and expanding my knowledge of working with lace is something I’m always up for.

Crochet lace insert sleeve tee

all doilied up

Since this whole lace tee trend started I keep asking myself, “How many lace shirts can I really justify having in my closet?”  I think the answer to that is something like, how much non-bridal lace can I find?

The thing about lace is that there’s so many different kinds of it and it lends itself to endless creativity.  Consider crochet lace.  It’s coarser and less stable than regular netted or bobbin laces, but the shapes and motifs are a little funkier and I think more fun too.  I don’t care how good they look, I cannot abide the scratchy feel of polyester or nylon laces, and it blows my mind the prices people pay for them given this stiff feel.  Naturally, crochet lace which I’ve only ever encountered made out of cotton is going to feel nice.

For this tee, I added a strip of lace down the center of each sleeve.  I divided the sleeve into thirds, putting a strip of thin white poly knit down the center and seaming it to my fashion fabric on either side.

My theory was that the lightweight nature of the lining would make it so that the lace wouldn’t out weigh the fashion fabric.  This worked out better than I anticipated.

I took the lace and hand basted it over the seams on the finished sleeve pieces, then I used a narrow (1.0 width, 2.5 length) zigzag to stitch around the edges.  The circle motifs had a tendency to poof out as I was working with the lace.  Knowing that the laundry would made this situation worse, I stitched around each of the motifs, essentially quilting the lace to the sleeve.  The extra thread added some weight in the sleeve, but I know it will come through the wash better.  The weight of the lace does make the neck a little rigid, but it’s not awful.  I think if I had left the lace unlined, it’d be a great deal less comfortable.

The pattern is Jalie 3245.  After much angst, I went forward with the changes that I’ve already made to this pattern.  After thinking about the armscye, I think I only need 1/4″ tuck vs the 1/2″ tuck that I took to “petite” the armscye.  The pattern as is does seem to sit lower than my other Jalie patterns, but not that much.  I did shorten the sleeve a bit for this tee.  The original sleeve sits awkwardly in the crook of my elbow, so I will always shorten or lengthen the sleeve when I use this pattern.

My full review of the pattern is here.

Armscye, armscye, where did you go?

hemtieshirtside

As many times as I’ve made Jalie 3245 by now, I think I would have figured out the fit, but I suppose not.

When I made this lace version, my armscye ended up drooping down considerably lower than it should have been.  I compared it against my TNT t-shirt and there was nothing that indicated that it should be drooping, so I was puzzled.

After I took in the side and underarm seams to make the shirt more wearable, I set out to fix the pattern.  I took a 1/2″ horizontal tuck in the armscye on the front and back and the sleeve to match.  This is a common alteration for me in big 4 who drafts their armholes half way down your side seam, but bizarre in Jalie who uses a nice Euro high (proper) armscye.

I didn’t think much of the change when I made the racerback versions.  I am not generally comfortable in sleeveless garments, and I have a high level of phobia about bra coverage in the underarm area.

But now, after making another version, I think my issue with the lace tee came down to my fabric.  The added weight of the lace combined with the high stretch of the peach fabric dropped the armscye all on its own.  This doesn’t surprise me.  My experience with Jalie’s patterns have been similar to Burda; if it seems like something is off, it’s me, not the pattern.  The drafting is too good.

This time, I changed things around to make Burdastyle’s 12-2009-129.

Why not just use that pattern, you say?  First, it’s for chiffon which has no place in my current wardrobe.  More importantly, the smallest size is 38, which makes for too much downsizing for me in the shoulders.  So I adapted the Jalie.

hemtieshirtsleeve

I shortened the sleeve and slashed it from the hem to the cap vertically in 4 places so that I could gather it into a band.  The sleeve keyhole is 1″ towards the back from the center of the sleeve.  I made a 2.5″ slash parallel to the sleeve’s grainline and bound the slash with a tiny 1″ wide strip of my fabric.  The button is purely decorative.  I also made a hem band with a keyhole on the side.  I was quite proud to have figured out a way to make the inside and outside clean on this.  The technique is similar as is found on Jalie’s scarf collar tee (#2921). To do this:

  1. Sew one side seam (for the keyhole on the opposite side seam, I bound the bottom 2″ of the front and back separately). Press.
  2. Press the hem band horizontally on the fold.
  3. Open the hem band, wrong side facing you and stitch it to the right side of the front/back combo.
  4. Roll up the front and back so that it’s entirely enclosed inside of the hem band when the right sides of the hem band are brought together.
  5. Bring the right sides of the hem band together and stitch the entire length of the hem band, stitching just past your first line of stitching.  Make sure to leave a small opening for turning.
  6. Turn and press and slipstitch the opening
  7. Yay!

hemtie

The stripe on this fabric was *so* off grain that there was 0% chance that I could match at the side seams.  We’ll pretend I did a good job.

As for the design, next time, I’d make the hem band a little longer so I can make a little more substantial tie, but I do like the overall look even if my armscye is a little deep down in my armpits.  I really will review this pattern properly, but for now, I’m chalking this one up to user error.

hemtieshirtfront

Jalie 3245, the gym rat

darkpinkracerback

On my last trip to Denver Fabrics, I had all 3 boys with me, so I had to move quickly, and decisively if I was going to get out without too much fuss.  I needed stretch fabric to muslin pants and they always have multiple yard cuts in the 50% off solid color flat cuts.

I moved through the store in about 15 minutes which is near impossible.  But on the way out, I spied not one, but 2 lengths of cotton knits on the $2/lb table.  There wasn’t enough in either for an actual t-shirt, but plenty for Jalie 3245 in the tank style.

I learned from the raglan version (which I will review one of these days) that I needed a 1/2″ petite adjustment.  Though I compared it to my TNT (Jalie 2921), I found that the armscye sat a little lower on this pattern.  It could have been my fabric choice, but at any rate, it was necessary for a tank.  I rarely wear sleeveless tees because it’s so rare to find one with adequate side coverage.  This adjustment also raises the neckline slightly which is great!  I also shortened it by an inch which brought the length to a better spot on me.

The actual construction is simple.  It’s 4 seams and binding.  I like Jalie’s method of binding, but it takes practice.  They have you sew the binding to the wrong side of the neckline, flip it to the right side, and fold it over the seam as you’re stitching.  It produces excellent, RTW results, but you must be careful to not stretch the neckline as you’re sewing.  Also, you have to watch your needle so that you’re stitching an even distance away from the fold.  I’d like to say that this is a quick and easy sew, but unless you’re proficient at this style of binding, this step is a major time suck.

yellowracerback

When I first saw this pattern, I thought that the curved hem was a fun feature, but after 3 tees, I’m over it.  I will swap out a straight hem the next time I make this pattern.  These tops have been great puttering about the house in the heat, and they’re wonderful for workouts.  Since I workout at home, those clothes get used long past when they probably should, so a couple of fresh tees dedicated for such a task is a welcome change.  Now if only I could find the kind of quality lightweight cotton/poly/spandex that all of my workout bottoms are made from…

My full review is here.

The T-shirt Project #6: Jalie wins every time


Whew, it’s been a long time since I’ve posted.  We had a good time at my in-laws in super ultra northern CA after the massive road trip that it requires to get to them which included a stop in the Bay area for a Giants’ game (so fun) and some good fabric shopping at Stone Mountain and Daughter and Eureka Fabrics.  I won’t take the time to sort out my purchases–you’ll see them as I sew them up I’m sure.

Back at home, it’s taken me a couple of weeks to get back in the swing of things, but yesterday I was able to crank out a badly needed tee.  To boot, I’m back on track for the t-shirt project!

I’ve been eyeing Jalie’s Criss Cross top pattern for a long time.  Years probably.  I love anything mock wraplike in nature, and the x design is really flattering.  I loved it so much that cheap me decided to “replicate” it in New Look 6729

It has a similar look–the x design across the front, but it’s a cut-on sleeve, and as I found out when I made this version, the smallest size is too wide for me across the shoulder, and the side seams have an absurd amount of ease.  The criss cross was all droopy, it didn’t cover the gap in the underlayer, and I had to put in a little triangle because it crossed too low.  I remember taking the side seams in about 4″ to help the drooping issue and even then, they flare out at the hips considerably.  I didn’t even write about this top when I made it about a year ago it was so weird.  I first considered it a wadder, but it’s worked out well for me as a maternity top.  In fact, the silly side seams have so much ease that I’m comfortably wearing this at nearly 24 weeks pregnant no problem even after my 4″ seam monkeying, and I could still pinch out about 4″ of flare from the hips.  And the X still sits funny.

What did we learn here, people?  Jalie makes better t-shirt patterns.  Period.  Is it annoying that I have to order them and pay like $12/each one instead of making a quick stop to JoAnn’s and getting a pattern for 99 cents?  You bet, but in the end, I use my Jalies so much and the fit is so great that I’m starting to think that all of those “cheap” patterns are not that great of a value.

So in thinking about PR’s Mini-Wardrobe Contest (my favorite contest!), I decided to invest in another Jalie.  I had this cool lightweight cotton crepe blend knit stripe in this pebbled peachy strawberry sherbet color in the stash.  I wanted to make a longer sleeve out of it (not the bell in the pattern but the straight 3/4 from Jalie 2921 as bell sleeves are not my thang), but I was short on fabric.  After some fussy laying out, I did have enough for the flutter sleeve that’s included in the pattern.  Sadly, I should have cut the sleeve in a single layer because I tried to do so in a double layer, I got about 80% through before I realized that one sleeve would have a massive hole in the middle of it.  I had just enough to eek out a cap sleeve from my scraps.  I borrowed the sleeve from Jalie 2921 after a quick comparison of the armscye (it’s the same, so mix and match away).

The lower front piece is not seamed to the top but simply tacked to the bottom cross piece.  Elastic holds it tight against your middle and the crossover more than covers everything.  I stayed true to my Q (32) size in the shoulders and neck and went up to an S (36) below the armscye typical.  Over my pregnancies, I’ve come to understand that the 32 never ever moves and that my starting point needs to be just one size up below the armscye.  I will need to add to the lower front obviously and maybe the bust as I progress, but for now, my sizing is pretty right on.

I changed up my maternity altering on the lower front.  I’ve always used this tutorial from Rostitchery for altering for the bump.  This tutorial is absolutely fine as long as you don’t need to add all that much.  When you start needing to add say over 1″ in the method she describes, what happens is that the side seams can kind of just tent out.  Yes, you have enough to cover your middle, but the fabric just isn’t distributed all that well.

Sandra Betzina had an alternative method on Episode 108 of Power Sewing (do you all know that you can buy individual episodes now?  Wish that was an option when I subscribed–maybe it was and I didn’t realize it…).  Instead of just adding near the side seam as in the Rostitchery alteration, she has you distribute what you need in several different slices across the front.  If I stop to think about it, this makes a lot more sense…the bump is not happening at the side seams, it’s really all in front, so why am I adding inches upon inches at the side seams?  No wonder I look back at my later maternity tops from #2 and think, man that looks kind of schmoopy.

So this time, I sliced up my lower front pattern in 3 different places parallel to CF and added 1/2″ in each section at the hem (looking like little triangular wedges).  The bonus of doing it this way is that you have not much distortion when you go to true up the bottom.  At the end of the day, I’m loving this top and it is definitely going to pop up in other flavors in the next couple of months.

My full review is here.

The T-shirt Project #2: Boden Twist Jersey Top

So I guess I’m getting to April’s knockoff here on May 10th.  I will aspire to be more on top of things in the future.

At any rate, I sewed up 90% of this at my last fitting group meeting.  Maybe I’m getting more efficient, but t-shirts really are becoming a quick sew for me–a mind cleanser from big projects like jeans–but I think I’ve said as much before.

On the board is Boden’s Twist Jersey top.

It’s a great empire waisted crossover top with a little detail, but nothing too difficult.  In a matter of total coincidence, Aleah also knocked this off recently for PR’s RTW contest.  I think she got closer to what I’m about to show you, particularly in the pleating in the crossover.  Jalie 2804 (my base for this top) doesn’t have any pleating on the crossover, and I kind of miss that about this pattern.  In general, there needs to be some shaping in the bust on this pattern.  It’s still a good pattern, and it got the job done, but if you’re looking to knock this off, you might check out Aleah’s base of Simplicity 1916.  I’m definitely picking up this pattern for some of the variations at the next sale.

To start off, I had to fix some issues I had with this problem from the last time I made it.

I had huge problems with the depth of the empire line when I made this as a maternity top. I swear this pattern is for the bustless among us as the seam hits literally inches into my braline, even though I’m probably not quite a D these days and wear really well fitting, not cheapo bras. At any rate, rather than struggle through several muslins as I did in my maternity version, adjusting the empire line, I compared the pattern to an empire line that I knew worked for me–that of Vogue 1027. To give you an idea of how high up there the seam is , I had to add a full 1.5″ to the bottom of the crossover pieces to equal the seam on the Vogue pattern (I subtracted 1.5″ from the lower bodice piece). The Vogue fortuitously hits a little below my bust line which was helpful because after I made my muslin, I realized that I needed to do a kind of large petite adjustment–3/4″ vs. the typical 1/2″ that I usually do on patterns. There was *just* enough length in the added length of the crossover to accommodate this.

Comparing this pattern to my TNT, which is Jalie 2921, I noticed that the drafting is really quite different–the aforementioned bigger armscye and it’s slimmer fitting as well. It’s not a complaint, just something I wouldn’t necessarily expect.

To make this twist:

1.  Cut two rectangles the full width of the empire seam plus an inch X 7″ wide. I folded them in half, wrong sides in and serged the raw edge and turned the tube. Rather than pressing the seam at the bottom of the rectangle, I moved the seam around so it was more or less in the middle of the rectangle. This allowed the top and bottom of the tube to be seamless from the right side–a feature that appears to be on Boden’s top. You could do just a single layer of fabric and hem the top and bottom, but my jersey was pretty lightweight and I never like the look of hemming on twist tops, so I went with the double layer instead.

2.  Next, I folded the tubes in half and slipped one around the other. I put a pin where CF landed just to keep things together for the next step. From the wrong side of the twist, put right sides together on one side of the twist and serge or stitch as far as you can before you hit the twist itself. Repeat on the other side. I then gathered the sides of the twist which is really clearly there on the Boden top. I made sure I had extra length to play with in case the twist ended up being too tight. I figured it’d be easier to fix it if it were drooping than the other way around. I basted the twist under the empire seam into place and basted the side seams to check the fit and placement. With my particular jersey, I had about an extra 5/8″ that eventually had to get whacked off the sides of the twist. I got the placement where I wanted it the second time and cut off the excess before I serged the side seams.

3.  I tacked down the center of the twist at CF so that it wouldn’t droop and so that it would still cover the empire seam.  You’re really going to want to do this because even if you hemmed and made a single layered twist, it’s going to be heavy, and anchoring it helps distribute that weight so the poor side seams aren’t having to do all of that work.  Also, I didn’t want the empire seam showing since the twist already provides a horizontal line–it seemed too busy, and I’m all for disguising empire lines in general.

I flatlocked the seams as I’ve been doing lately because it’s ultra fast and produces a really nice finish on the inside–nicer than a twin needle, but mostly just faster because I can use my serger for the whole thing. To do so, change your tension for flatlocking (0 on your needle, the highest on the loopers or at least higher than normal) you press up your hem then treat it like a blind hem. Though, watching some of the Power Sewing videos, Ron Collins showed the same method without switching the tension settings for flatlock, so you just get a seamed hem. I will definitely try this the next time I feel like serging a hem.

I don’t think I need another one of these tops as my short-waistedness makes me feel a little Princess and the Pea about anything around my midsection.  I should have noticed the proportion difference between me and the Boden model, but the twist kind of blurs that.  I’m sure if I were to try on their regular version of this top (they do make a petite version too), it’d be something like tunic length on me.  I’m not disappointed though.  I think part of creating is figuring out what works for you and what’s better on someone else.  You tall and long waisted people, this is a great choice for you!

As for me, I’m still enjoying my version with my linen shorts today with friends and all our kids at the Train Museum for MMM ’12, day 10.  It was hot and sunny, but a nice day for crawling around inside of trains.  And as predicted, I’m really glad for the breathe factor of the linen.

My review of the top is here.

The T-shirt Project April

The nice thing about starting a sew along at the end of the month is that I have all month to procrastinate think carefully about the next top.

cute twist  Boden

I think I’m going to try to replicate this Boden top.  I love Boden’s fun details and fantastic prints that they use.  They are definitely a frequently visited site for me as I Pinterest.  I love how this top could be appropriate for a backyard BBQ or a girls’ night out.  It’s casually elegant and totally fits in with my tiny costumed dauchsund, beautiful bread, wine, soup greens, and a Vespa image.

This top shouldn’t be too difficult to recreate.  It’s a crossover neckline with an added twist of fabric that looks separate and sewn and ruched into the side seams.  I might have to fuss around with the length of the twist so that it pulls without being tight but also not sagging.

I’m going to start with Jalie 2804 Jalie 2804 - Empire Crossover Top Pattern Coveras a base.  I think I will lower the empire line so that it will be 100% covered by the twist and also to make room for my full bust (I’ll have to add length also right under the apex).  I’ll be comparing this to my TNT even though I’ve made this top before because I made it when I was rather pregnant with Sam, and I’m considerably smaller now.  I do like that there’s the ruched sleeve detail on this pattern too–a fun detail when I’ve been contemplating summer.

So what has everyone else been making?  What’s your status on the project?

Happy leap week

I’ve been puttering around kind of wracking my brain over a jacket and making a skirt way more difficult than necessary.  I was just thinking that I needed to just take an hour or so and make a knit top to give my mind a break but still give my creativity a boost.  At that very moment, I came across Trena’s post about leap day and wearing yellow and blue (leap days’ official colors apparently) and inspiration struck.  I was not only inspired by her yellow, but by the opportunity to colorfully celebrate the 220th birthday of Rossini, who is in my top 5 of favorite opera composers.

I’ve had remnants of the Milly rayon jersey I used for this dress hanging about waiting for a project.  I thought about making pajama shorts and a cami, but I didn’t have quite enough.  My coral Jalie scarf collar top is getting a little threadbare, so I’ve been kicking around the idea of replacing it.  When I saw Trena’s lovely yellow dress, I knew what I had to do.  I had just enough to squeeze a cap-sleeved version of the scarf collar out of the scraps I had leftover from the dress.  I cut it out at 4 pm and had all but the hems and side seams finished by 5 when the kids woke up.

I came back after dinner to finish though only to find that the ceiling in the sewing room was leaking!  Quelle horreur!  You can imagine how excited I am about being a plumbing assistant.  We have a container in place under the pipe in the kitchen that’s the culprit until we have more time on the weekend, but needless to say, my quick top didn’t materialize as quickly as I would have hoped.

By the time I got back to it, I had very little time to wear it and “officially” celebrate leap day, so I decided to declare it leap week.  I leave you with some Beverly Sills and “Una Voce Poco Fa” from the Barber of Seville. (could this woman have been more brilliant?)

 

Adaptation

As I said in my last post, I’m starting to understand how you can take certain elements that worked from other patterns and apply them to new ones.

When I realized that I was in great need of some basic tops, the first thing I pulled out was my Jalie scarf collar top.  I love how it fits.  It has a nice slim fit in the arms, and the rest is body conscious without being tight or tacky.  But how many scarf-collared tops can you really have?  For me–2–one non-pregnant, and one maternity version.  But don’t toss out this pattern because the scarf is limited in use.  The scarf is just a glorified binding–change it a little and you have a v-neck.

So I pull out Butterick 5386, which is now unfortunately OOP.  It has some nice neckline options.  I’ve made the shawl collar mock wrap and wore it to pieces, and the basic v is so handy.  What’s not handy about this pattern is how much extra fluff there is in it.  When I made it, I was just learning about fitting myself and did a full-on FBA and ended up having to take something like 5″ out of *each* of the side seams and it was still large on me (clearly I had no idea what I was doing then).  Even without an FBA, there’s way more extra room in this pattern then in the Jalie.  But I wanted a v-neck.  How to make it work…

1.  Mark the stitching lines on both patterns.  In this case, Jalie has 1/4″ SA’s, and Butterick has 5/8″ (which is so so silly in knits, but I digress).

2.  Overlay the patterns, lining them up at CF.  What I noticed was that the neck edge is pretty similar in both patterns–there’s a little more fabric AT the neckline on the Butterick, but that’s mostly because the collar takes up some of that room on the Jalie pattern.

3.  Tape some extra tissue to the pattern you’re changing and trace the stitching line of the neckline from the other pattern.  I raised CF by 1″ because without the covering benefit of the scarf collar, CF is a little too low for me on the Jalie pattern.

4.  Add a seam allowance to your new neckline.  It took a while for me to like 1/4″ sa’s, but I’m a fan now.

5.  Change the back shoulder seam to match the front.  I needed a little wedge that I blended into the back neckline with my French curve.

To finish the neckline, I cut a crossgrain strip of fabric 1.25″ wide.  I folded it over, pressed and applied it per Sarah Veblen’s method in this video.  If I had used a wider binding, I might have used Sandra Betzina’s wrap over technique that I wrote about here, but since my finished strip was so skinny, I sewed out a teeny dart in the binding only at CF as I’ve seen on some of my RTW tees.

The best part of this whole process was that start to finish, I had a t-shirt in 90 minutes.  It probably would’ve been quicker even than that but I was flustered for being in the middle of packing for San Diego while I was making the shirt.

To finish it, I used Sherrill’s lovely knit flowers tutorial and had me some nice hand sewing time in the car around San Diego.  I need to tack them down some more as they look kind of droopy after the wash.  How do you launder embellished shirts without them going to bits?

I forgot to mention that the fabric is rayon jersey from Elliott Berman that I got when they had their 50% off anniversary sale some months ago.  This is the best quality rayon jersey I’ve used besides the Milly print that I got from EmmaOneSock.  It’s dense and light and drapes ever so nicely and feels like silk against your skin.