To invert or not

I finished my Burda jacket, but I’ll wait to post about it until tomorrow when I get some pictures of it.

For now, this is my muslin for #3 for the contest.  I merged the Jalie scarf top pattern with a really pretty maternity pattern from the August 2008 issue of Burda.  I love the scarf top as it fits me well, but it’s a bit too basic.  I figured the pleating from this dress would make it a little more interesting.   My plan was to split the Jalie front essentially into 3 pieces–two pleated sections as it is in the dress and a plain bottom section.  As long as I worked within the boundaries of the Jalie pattern piece, I figured I couldn’t fail because I know that that fits me.  

First I copied my front piece of my Jalie so I didn’t lose track of it.  I placed a plain piece of paper on top of that, matching center fronts which I tacked down to my gridded board.  I traced off the 2 bodice pieces from the dress and found that the shoulder was precisely the same size and slope.  I then tacked the shoulders down and traced the bottom of the curve on the upper portion of the bodice onto my plain paper.  I wanted to raise the neckline on the Jalie by about 1″ because it’s on the verge of being too low for my taste.  No problem.  I just changed the angle of my curve on the neckline with my French curve to match 1″ higher on CF.  I extended the bottom of the bodice to that point and traced the side seam from the Jalie pattern (this eliminated some of the bodice section of the Burda, but no matter, remember it’s the Jalie boundaries I’m working in).  Using graphite paper between the Burda section and my plain paper, I traced the pleating placement lines and the grainlines.  I did the same to the lower bodice section.  What was left over became the lower part of the front by default.  I cut these 3 sections apart and added 3/8″ seam allowance.

Onto the pleated sections…I cut apart the pleating placement lines on the bodice sections from the CF line towards the side seams, leaving a wee tiny hinge at the side seam uncut.  I made sure to keep my grainline the same and I spread these sections on paper so the tip of the line was 2″ apart from the other side of the cut.  I tacked this all down, and traced the new sections and carefully taped my others back together.  Then I cut it out in cheap poly knit I got on clearance at Wal-Mart.  I matched the sides of the pleated sections and basted them all the way around the piece.  This left the extra fabric to be pleated just literally hanging around.  I manipulated that excess into pleats and tacked them down.  One side of the bodice I pleated plainly, with the pleats laying up, and the other I made a series of inverted pleats.  I like the look of both…the plain are certainly easier to do, and I think they look a little better on me. 

Everything else I sewed normally.  I don’t think I need to change anything except maybe to line the bodice because the pleating shows through (but then, this fabric is awful stuff).  I had some white rayon lycra set aside for this top, but it’s not right with the jacket which is pretty pastel…the combo of the two would be overwhelming for my fair skin.  I did see some violet pink lyrca at JoAnn yesterday.  Since I didn’t have the jacket with me and there were about a gazillion people there, I thought I’d go back today (and I will when my son wakes up) and double check the color.  I’m pretty sure it’s almost the color of the buttons I used for the jacket.

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