10 minute full slip tutorial

Lining a dress is a good thing.  It cuts down on wrinkling, gives the dress the right amount of body, and makes the dress more opaque.  Besides the added expense of lining a dress, there are times when it is not convenient or complicated to line a dress.  In those cases, slips are a good alternative.

My St. Patrick’s Day dress for instance is a good candidate for a slip.  With the multiple panels on the front, and the added gathering in those panels, making a lining as is from the pattern pieces would increase the bulk considerably.  I could draft a stand-alone front lining, but that would require more work than it’s probably worth.

But there are few knit slips that aren’t some sort of girdle (you can euphemize them by calling them Spanx, but girdles they be).  Since I wear enough crossover bodice dresses that require a little bit more front coverage, I’ve been wanting a camisole/slip combo.  Then I could wear as a slip or could peek out under the dress without looking too underwear-like.  It occurred to me that I could just sew on a skirt to an existing camisole, which is just what I did.

10 minute full slip

You will need:

• An existing well-fitting camisole (I’ve had this one for more years than is probably kosher from Forever 21)
• Knit dress pattern with a straight skirt (Burdastyle 6-2010-109, BWOF 2-2007-123 maybe) or a-line if you wear more of those types of dresses
• additional knit fabric (I used some great 4 way stretch nylon tricot which I love for lining because it’s comfortable and hangs very well
• tracing wheel
• 2 pins
• marking pen (optional)

How to put it together

• Put on your camisole under whatever dress you are looking to use the slip with.
• With 2 pins, mark where the bottom of the camisole hits on each side seam of your dress.
• Take off the dress and transfer those marks to the skirt portion of your pattern.
• Draw a line connecting the two points on the front and back of the skirt.
• Using the tracing wheel, trace that line onto your lining fabric for the front and back pieces as well as the hemline.
• Use a marking pen to darken the tracing wheel marks if it’s difficult to see them.
• Add a seam allowance to the top of the skirt portions, and subtract about 2″ from the hemline (I have a rotary cutting guide that allows me to do this in one step, but you can easily mark with a ruler).
• Cut out your front and back pieces.
• Sew the side seams.
• Sew the skirt to the camisole (you could unpick the hem for a smoother look or not if you’re short on time).
• Finish the bottom of the skirt–I used a rolled hem on my serger for a fast, unbulky finish.

I can say that this is the most comfortable slip I’ve ever owned and a good way to repurpose camis that have outlived their first purpose.

Mommy sewing and a very simple tutorial

Sorry for the rather cheesy post title, but I didn’t want “Breastfeeding Lifesavers” to be the first thing that popped up in people’s Google reader. 

Seriously though, in a wave of genius, I made myself a wrap to wear while nursing in public towards the end of my pregnancy, and I don’t know what I’d do without it.  It’s kept things G-rated, been a blanket for Noah, a play mat when he was really little, a wipe for all of that spit up at the beginning, and occasionally when I’ve been desperate, a changing pad.  I more or less followed this tutorial, but instead of doing yards of hemming and pressing, I made mine reversible.  One side is a lightweight printed jersey and the other is a really finely woven cotton.  I have a couple of friends who are pregnant (one due imminently), and I wanted to give them something super useful.

For this one I serged rectangles of leftover jersey for one side and used quilting fabric for the other.

This one I made out of a cotton dobby and quilting fabric on the reverse side because it’s for a dear friend in Houston, and I wanted something that would not get too hot for her or the baby in the summer.

As for the tutorial, the other thing that super saved my life at the beginning of nursing with Noah were these pads to put in your bra to help absorb the extra milk that leaks until your body adjusts to your baby and to the whole business of nursing.  The flannel is soft against sore tender skin, and the layer of iron-on vinyl helps hinder leaking through your clothes.

Nursing Pads Tutorial

Supplies for 3 pair (that way a pair can always be in the wash):

Cotton flannel scraps–4″X48″ or the equivalent of that

Cotton batting (today I used polar fleece because I forgot I had cotton batting scraps)–4″X24″ or the equivalent

4″X24″ of iron-on vinyl

a 4″ diameter circle template (I used one of Noah’s toys because I didn’t have my circle rotary cutter handy)

a marking pen

Trace around your template onto the various materials and cut out 12 circles of flannel, and 6 each of the iron-on-vinyl and batting.

On 6 of the flannel circles, remove the backing from the vinyl and iron it on with the iron on the flannel side.

Place a circle of batting on top of the vinyl and put a plain circle of flannel on top of that.  Use a zigzag stitch to hold everything together or serge around the edges.  Tada!

Vote for me!

My tuffet fringe wristcushion is in the running for Sew Mama Sew’s Scrapbusters contest.  Vote for me here (I’m in the second group

On to other things:  I’m not a knitter.  I can’t crochet.  I must seriously be a shame to my family on this point given all of the beautiful doilies that my Mom’s mom made during her life and how my Czech great-grandma could make lace the real way by hand (she also made me an entire crocheted bedspread when I was little too complete with big yellow crocheted roses–amazing).  My Grandma tried to teach me–I couldn’t get everything nice and even and like most things that I don’t automatically take to (like sports) I gave up.  I really have come to terms with this.  I don’t think I could handle having bits of yarn all over anyhow as I (unlike my son, whom I strongly suspect is part cat) am neither fascinated nor inspired by bits of string.

But it’s getting cold here and my beloved turquoise wool scarf is showing some age these days!  But wait…I have fabric scraps and I remember seeing a friend in Bible study with a quilted scarf and I thought–that’s so cute and perfect!  So I cut wee 3″ by whatever length scraps from my stash, joined them with 1/4″ seams, pressed them, cut some flannel 2.5″ wide by the length of the scarf, basted some polar fleece scraps that were 2″ wide to the flannel, basted the flannel/fleece to the patchwork, cut a back, put right sides together, stitched around 3 sides and turned the whole thing, pressed it, stitched up the open end, and hand quilted it with bright pink and yellow embroidery floss.  Whew.  My neck is warmer.  And my son has a new toy to fascinate him while we’re out and about.

Scrap Busting Tuffet Fringed Wristcushion

Are you a stabber?  I sure am.  Somehow I manage to not step on pins, but I’m always pricking my fingers with them and my only defense seems to be a good pincushion…but then, I forget where I’ve put those.  So I figured out a solution–attach it to myself via wrist.  But then there’s the stabbing issue on a larger, less calloused part of my body.  Here’s my attempt to fix that problem too:

Fringed Wristcusion

Materials:

Coordinating (or not if that’s how you roll) scraps of cotton quilting fabric approximately 6″ long and any width

Scissors and/or rotary cutter

See-through quilting ruler

1 scrap of cardstock measuring 4″ X 4.5″

Your trusty sewing machine

1 scrap of canvas or other heavyweight decor fabric about 2″ X 2″

1 strip fabric about 1.75″ X 8″

1 scrap of fabric 2.5″ X 3″

28″ ribbon or bias tape

Needle and thread

A big fistfull of polyester stuffing

1 Dritz pins box bottom and the pins, of course!

glue stick!!

hot glue!!!

1/4 yd fringe trim

Directions:

1. Stack about 4 of the 6″ strips on top of each other.  Stagger the edges by about 1/4″ so that they won’t all be the same width when you cut them.  Using a see-through quilting ruler, cut through your stack at the 1.5″ mark.  Do this 2 times. 
2. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, join your strips of fabric in any order on the 6″ sides.  Press the seams in one direction.   
3. Lay the cardstock template on top of the right side of your little pieced rectangle you made in step 1 and cut around it with a rotary cutter (or trace around it and cut it out with scissors).  I put my template down not straight with the seams, but you can orient it any way you like.  
4. Matching right sides together, stitch the 1.75″ X 8″ strip around the 2.5″ X 3″ rectangle with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  You might have a little extra–no bother–just trim it off…it need not be perfect. 
5. If you’re using bias tape, bring the long folded edges together and stitch to make a ribbon.  Center the ribbon (or bias tape) on the bottom of the little box you made in step 4 and stitch it in place.
6. Put the plastic pin box in the center of the fabric box.  Apply glue stick to the outside of the plastic box and wrap the fabric box around it, pressing the edges down so that they stick.  Apply a little more glue stick on the inside edge of the plastic box and secure down the raw edges of the fabric. 
7. Using a doubled and knotted length of thread, fold over the raw edge of the rectangle from steps 1-3 about 1/4″ and sew around the perimeter with a long running stitch.  Stick the canvas piece in the center of the wrong side of the bottom and start filling with the stuffing.  As you add more stuffing, pull the thread so that it gathers tightly around the stuffing.  Keep adding more stuffing as you gather a little more.  Be careful not to add too much at one time or your thread could break and you’ll have to stitch again.  When you’re done, it should be a plump little tuft and the stuffing will stick out a bit at the back.  Knot the thread securely.
8. How fast can you glue gun?  Let’s find out!  Put a good dollop of hot glue in the center of the inside of the plastic box and stuff the little tuft in before the glue gets too cool.  I apologize now if you burn your fingers–I sure did…it didn’t feel good, but darn it I love my glue gun.  One by one, secure the edges of the tuft with a little more hot glue applied on the inside edges of the box.  You’ll probably have a little glue rearing it’s ugliness on the edges of your lovely little tuffet…but don’t fear–you have fringe!!!
9. Run a bead of hot glue around the top outside edge of the box and press in the fringe trim, covering up any glue mess from step 7. 
10. Stick in your pins (just try and stab yourself through all that plastic), tie it on your wrist and you’re ready to sew!

Summer Top Strap Sleeves Tutorial

Yea!  I’m back.  My serger is online again and I feel much better.  Sewing shall resume its normal place in my life.

I thought about doing a tutorial of the sleeves on my summer top, so here goes:

For those of you, like me who are rather tired of straps on summer tops that don’t cover your bra straps, and if strapless is a 4-letter word, this is a good solution to your dilemma.

Materials:

Basic sleeveless top pattern, cut out, front and back sewn together

1/2″ wide ribbon

pins

disappearing ink marker

1″ gridded paper or graph paper

fashion ruler

1/4 yard fabric, same as the top

1/4 yard lightweight, fusible interfacing (I’m using SofKnit)

tailor’s ham

1.  Baste a long length of ribbon where you want the strap to hit you on the back on each side.  Try on the top.  Pin the ribbons to each bra strap where the top edge of the top meets the ribbon.  Mark 1/2″ below this point with the marker.  Also mark the top point of your shoulder on the ribbon.  Note: you only need to mark on one side, but do pin on both sides, because your measurements will be more even.

2.  Take the top off and take out the basting at the back.  Measure the distance from the top of the shoulder to the back and the top of the shoulder to the front on the ribbon.  Make a note of these measurements because you’ll need them for the next step.

3.  On your paper, draw a 4″ line.  Mark the center of the line.  From the center mark, measure the distances from step 2 and make a mark in each place.  Centering your ruler at each mark, make a 2″ line that is parallel to the 4″ line. 

4.  Use the curved edge of the fashion ruler to connect the ends of all of the lines in a nice pleasing curve.  Cut out the template.  Cut along the 4″ line, leaving a 1/4″ hinge.  Pin the back of the strap to the back.  Try on the top and pin the front to the front edge of the strap.  Open the slash until the strap sits flat (sorry about the photo…it’s plum near impossible to photograph yourself doing this).  Measure the widest part of the opening. 

5.  Take the top and strap off again and spread the slash open the distance that you measured in step 4.  Fill in this gap with paper.  Use the fashion ruler to create a new edge.

6.  Repeat step 4 to check your work.  If you’re happy with things, go on.     

7.  Lay out the template on your fabric and cut 4.  Cut 2 of the interfacing.  Fuse the interfacing to two of the pattern pieces according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Facing right sides together, pin and sew along the long edges of the straps with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Clip along the curve in the seam allowance every 1/2″ or so to the stitching line.  Also cut out v’s at the sharpest points of the curves.  

Now trim the seams, trimming the part of the seam that will lie next to the body a bit less–this is called grading and it will reduce some bulk when you turn the strap right side out.  Turn the strap right side out and press it on your good old buddy, Mr. Hammy or a folded towel if you don’t have a Mr. Hammy in your life.

8.  Finish the bottom edges of the straps however you wish.  Today I used pinking shears, but you could serge it, or fold the raw edge under…choose your own adventure–I promise you won’t end up in a black hole.  Topstitch along the long edges 1/8″ from the edge.

9.  Sandwich the straps upside down between the facings and the right side of the garment.  Stitch them in place.

10.  Enjoy the cute straps you just made! (Wow, I look caffeinated).

Tea tin tidying tutorial

If I haven’t mentioned it before, I am a tea junkie.  I must have my little pot in the morning before I can function.  It’s not so much about the caffeine as it is about forcing myself to slow down long enough to sip a pot’s worth of tea.  It just might be the only time of day that my brain isn’t going 80 mph.  Here’s the problem though:  we have VERY little storage in our kitchen, so all of my teas just sit on top of the refrigerator in some glass jars or in the paper packages I bought them in.  It’s not so attractive to look at, and when your space is small, I feel like the things that you must look at should be a little cuter simply because you have to look at them.  Here’s my solution:

Fabric Tea tins

Materials:

Small glass jars or tea tins

Pinking shears

Fabric scraps

Matte Mod Podge

Foam brush

Acrylic paints

Take a scrap of fabric and cut enough to wrap around one of the glass jars plus a little bit extra.  Use the pinking shears to cut along the bottom and top of the scrap.  Using the brush, paint a thin layer of ModPodge on the outside of the jar and attach the fabric, smoothing as you go around the jar.  When you get to where you started, fold over the raw edge (that’s why you cut a little extra) to finish the “seam.”**  You can add fabric to make the tops of the jars a little nicer, or you can paint them with acrylic paints.  Seal the paint with a couple layers of Mod Podge.  Fill the jars with your tea and enjoy how pretty they look the next time you make your morning cuppa.

**You could put some more Mod Podge over the fabric to make it nice and shiny, but note that it will make it feel a bit crunchy–you can sand some of this sensation off with fine grit sandpaper, but not all of it.

                                      Before

 

                                      After

Father’s Day Patchwork Tie Napkins Tutorial

Father’s Day brings two things to mind for me: handmade ties and a special breakfast. This year, in honor of Dad, combine these two icons of Father’s Day in these patchwork tie napkins.

Materials:
2 coordinating fat quarters
Thread to match
Scrap of cardboard or cardstock about 4” X 11”
Fabric scraps: one 4” X 4”; one 4” X 3”; one 4”X 2”; one
4” X 1.75”; one 4” X 1.5”; one 4”X 1”; one 4” X .75
Glue stick
Disappearing ink fabric marker or chalk
Scissors
Pins

Directions:
1. Create the tie template: At the top center of the cardboard, draw a 2” square. Mark the bottom center of the square. Make two marks at 7” and 9” down from the bottom center of the square. At the 7” mark, measure outwards 2” on either side. Connect the bottom edges of the square to these two marks. Connect each of these two marks then to the bottom point. Cut out the template.

2. Make the tie: Matching wrong sides together, sew two of the fabric scraps together at the 4” sides with a .25” seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining scraps until you have one long rectangle of scraps. Press the seams open so that they lay flat. Lay the tie template on the completed rectangle and trace around it with the marker or chalk. Cut out the tie and set aside.

3. Appliqué the tie: Paint the backside of the tie with the glue stick*. Affix the tie to the center right side of one of the fat quarters. Satin stitch around the tie to secure the tie to the fabric using a zigzag stitch.

4. Make the napkin: Cut the fat quarters to 18” X 18”. Save the scraps for another project. Match wrong sides of both of the fat quarters together and pin around the edges. Starting 4” from one edge, straight stitch all the way around the edges with a .5” seam allowance, leaving the last 3” unstitched. Clip the corners, being careful not to clip into the stitching. Turn the napkin right sides out through the opening. Press the napkin; making sure that your opening is turned under flush to the other edges. Topstitch around the entire napkin.

*You could affix the tie with Heat and Bond Lite, but since this project will come in contact with food, I figured something that is guaranteed non-toxic like a glue stick is a better option. Just be sure to wash the napkin before you use it to get out the glue.

Reversible square neckline children’s apron tutorial

Materials:
1/2 yard cotton quilting fabric (fabric A)
1/2 yard coordinating cotton quilting fabric for reverse side (fabric B)
1 coordinating fat quarter for making bias binding and neck strap                                                                                                     1/8 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing
thread to match
4 jiffy buttons that look nice with your fabrics

Pattern making:
1. To make your pattern for the apron body, tape 2 sheets of typing paper together on the short side. Draw a line 6″ down and 4 1/4″ in.  Continue the line from the 4 1/4″ mark across for 3 1/4″ inches. Draw up 6″ parallel to the 6″ line you just drew. Cut out the space indicated (this will be the upper pocket).  Continue the 3 1/4″ line down the length of the pattern–cut all of this away.

You will need to cut:
Apron body: 1 from fabric A, 1 from fabric B
Bottom pocket: 2 from fabric A, 2 from fabric B, 2 from interfacing, measuring 15″ X 5″
Upper pocket: 2 from fabric A, 2 from fabric B, 2 from interfacing, measuring 8 1/2″X 6″                                                  Apron ties: 2 from fabric A, 2 from fabric B, measuring 20″ X  3″  

Directions:

1.  Cut an 18″ square from your fat quarter.  Save the extra for making your neck strap.  Make the square into bias binding (I used this tutorial–to make it into binding, either fold in half lengthwise and press or pass the tape through a bias tape maker).   Set aside your binding.

2.  Iron the interfacing bumpy side down onto the wrong side of 2 bottom pockets and 2 upper pockets (the other sections will be for the pocket lining).   You can decide if you want to have your pockets lined with the same fabric or if you want them to be lined with the opposite fabric.

3.  Bottom pockets:  Pin together 1 bottom pocket lining section and 1 interfaced bottom pocket section with the wrong sides facing.  Baste around the entire section with a 1/8″ seam.  Apply bias binding to the upper edge.  Baste the pocket with a 1/8″ seam to the bottom of 1 apron body around the 3 raw edges.  Repeat  with the other bottom pocket.

4.  Upper pockets:  Pin together 1 upper pocket lining section and 1 interfaced upper pocket section with the right sides facing.  Sew around 3 sides, leaving one of the upper edges unsewn.  Clip the corners and turn the pocket right sides out.  Press.  Apply bias binding to the upper raw edge.  Position the pocket on 1 apron body about 1 1/2″ below the neckline base.  Pin.  Topstitch around the bottom and sides.  Repeat with the other upper pocket.  

5.  Lay one apron body on top of the other, right sides facing in.  Using a 1/8″ seam, baste the entire apron together leaving this part open:

     

6. Apron ties:  Pin together 1 tie each of fabric A and B, wrong sides facing.  Using a 1/4″ seam, stich around the two long sides and one short side.  Clip corners and turn the tube inside out.  Press and topstitch around the bottom and sides.  Pin the raw edge of each tie 4″ up from the upper edge of the bottom pocket and so that the edge of the tie is flush with the edge of the apron.  Baste the ties to the apron with a 1/8″ seam.

7.  Bottom pocket sections:  Make two vertical lines on one of the bottom pockets at 5″ and at 10.”  Stitch through all layers down those lines to create smaller pockets on both sides of your apron.

8.  Binding: Apply bias binding along the edge of your apron, still leaving that small section open at the top of the arm.  Stitch the apron ties to the edge of the binding so that they lie flat.

9.  Neck strap:  On the leftover piece of your fat quarter, fold in half on the short side and stitch down the raw side and bottom with a 3/8″ seam.  Clip the corners and turn the tube inside out and press.  Topstitch around the bottom and sides.  Turn the raw edge of the apron section you’ve left open in 1/2.”  Slip the raw edge of your strap into this opening and pin.  Stitch across this opening to enclose the raw seams.  You can add some more bias tape here to decorate if you wish.  On the opposite end of your neck strap, create 3 vertical buttonholes that will accomodate the buttons you’ve selected, leaving a 1/2″ between each buttonhole–this will allow your child to adjust the strap to fit.

10.  Buttons:  Sew on your buttons at the top of the arm on both sides.  Ta da!  You’re done!

Yoyos on a string scarf tutorial

This is a good way to use leftover yoyos that you might have after you’ve finished a project that uses a lot of them and you miscalculated.  This is also a good project if you have always wanted to try making yoyos but you haven’t done so because so many yoyo projects involve a lot of them. 

Materials:

2 pieces of wool or cotton velvet 2″ X 36″

11 fabric yoyos of various colors and textures if you wish (there is a tutorial here if you don’t know how to make a yoyo)

Directions:

Matching the right sides of your fabric strips together, stitch around both long sides and one short side of your strips, using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Clip the corners and trim your seam allowance to 1/4″.

Turn your tube right side out through the short side that you left open and press all around your scarf.  Folding the raw edge of the open short side in, topstitch completely around the scarf with contrasting thread if you like or to match if you prefer.

Line up your yoyos on the scarf wherever you want them and pin in place. 

(Note: if you want to place some of them right next to each other, it’s best to first join the backs of them with a whipstitch like this)

You might want to try the scarf on and see if you like where they are and adjust the pins as necessary.  Once you have them where you want them, sew one line down the middle of the pinned yoyos on the side without yoyos (your machine will have an easier time with the yoyos on the bottom). 

You’re done!