As many times as I’ve made Jalie 3245 by now, I think I would have figured out the fit, but I suppose not.
When I made this lace version, my armscye ended up drooping down considerably lower than it should have been. I compared it against my TNT t-shirt and there was nothing that indicated that it should be drooping, so I was puzzled.
After I took in the side and underarm seams to make the shirt more wearable, I set out to fix the pattern. I took a 1/2″ horizontal tuck in the armscye on the front and back and the sleeve to match. This is a common alteration for me in big 4 who drafts their armholes half way down your side seam, but bizarre in Jalie who uses a nice Euro high (proper) armscye.
I didn’t think much of the change when I made the racerback versions. I am not generally comfortable in sleeveless garments, and I have a high level of phobia about bra coverage in the underarm area.
But now, after making another version, I think my issue with the lace tee came down to my fabric. The added weight of the lace combined with the high stretch of the peach fabric dropped the armscye all on its own. This doesn’t surprise me. My experience with Jalie’s patterns have been similar to Burda; if it seems like something is off, it’s me, not the pattern. The drafting is too good.
This time, I changed things around to make Burdastyle’s 12-2009-129.
Why not just use that pattern, you say? First, it’s for chiffon which has no place in my current wardrobe. More importantly, the smallest size is 38, which makes for too much downsizing for me in the shoulders. So I adapted the Jalie.
I shortened the sleeve and slashed it from the hem to the cap vertically in 4 places so that I could gather it into a band. The sleeve keyhole is 1″ towards the back from the center of the sleeve. I made a 2.5″ slash parallel to the sleeve’s grainline and bound the slash with a tiny 1″ wide strip of my fabric. The button is purely decorative. I also made a hem band with a keyhole on the side. I was quite proud to have figured out a way to make the inside and outside clean on this. The technique is similar as is found on Jalie’s scarf collar tee (#2921). To do this:
- Sew one side seam (for the keyhole on the opposite side seam, I bound the bottom 2″ of the front and back separately). Press.
- Press the hem band horizontally on the fold.
- Open the hem band, wrong side facing you and stitch it to the right side of the front/back combo.
- Roll up the front and back so that it’s entirely enclosed inside of the hem band when the right sides of the hem band are brought together.
- Bring the right sides of the hem band together and stitch the entire length of the hem band, stitching just past your first line of stitching. Make sure to leave a small opening for turning.
- Turn and press and slipstitch the opening
The stripe on this fabric was *so* off grain that there was 0% chance that I could match at the side seams. We’ll pretend I did a good job.
As for the design, next time, I’d make the hem band a little longer so I can make a little more substantial tie, but I do like the overall look even if my armscye is a little deep down in my armpits. I really will review this pattern properly, but for now, I’m chalking this one up to user error.