Daily Archives: October 25, 2011

Adaptation

As I said in my last post, I’m starting to understand how you can take certain elements that worked from other patterns and apply them to new ones.

When I realized that I was in great need of some basic tops, the first thing I pulled out was my Jalie scarf collar top.  I love how it fits.  It has a nice slim fit in the arms, and the rest is body conscious without being tight or tacky.  But how many scarf-collared tops can you really have?  For me–2–one non-pregnant, and one maternity version.  But don’t toss out this pattern because the scarf is limited in use.  The scarf is just a glorified binding–change it a little and you have a v-neck.

So I pull out Butterick 5386, which is now unfortunately OOP.  It has some nice neckline options.  I’ve made the shawl collar mock wrap and wore it to pieces, and the basic v is so handy.  What’s not handy about this pattern is how much extra fluff there is in it.  When I made it, I was just learning about fitting myself and did a full-on FBA and ended up having to take something like 5″ out of *each* of the side seams and it was still large on me (clearly I had no idea what I was doing then).  Even without an FBA, there’s way more extra room in this pattern then in the Jalie.  But I wanted a v-neck.  How to make it work…

1.  Mark the stitching lines on both patterns.  In this case, Jalie has 1/4″ SA’s, and Butterick has 5/8″ (which is so so silly in knits, but I digress).

2.  Overlay the patterns, lining them up at CF.  What I noticed was that the neck edge is pretty similar in both patterns–there’s a little more fabric AT the neckline on the Butterick, but that’s mostly because the collar takes up some of that room on the Jalie pattern.

3.  Tape some extra tissue to the pattern you’re changing and trace the stitching line of the neckline from the other pattern.  I raised CF by 1″ because without the covering benefit of the scarf collar, CF is a little too low for me on the Jalie pattern.

4.  Add a seam allowance to your new neckline.  It took a while for me to like 1/4″ sa’s, but I’m a fan now.

5.  Change the back shoulder seam to match the front.  I needed a little wedge that I blended into the back neckline with my French curve.

To finish the neckline, I cut a crossgrain strip of fabric 1.25″ wide.  I folded it over, pressed and applied it per Sarah Veblen’s method in this video.  If I had used a wider binding, I might have used Sandra Betzina’s wrap over technique that I wrote about here, but since my finished strip was so skinny, I sewed out a teeny dart in the binding only at CF as I’ve seen on some of my RTW tees.

The best part of this whole process was that start to finish, I had a t-shirt in 90 minutes.  It probably would’ve been quicker even than that but I was flustered for being in the middle of packing for San Diego while I was making the shirt.

To finish it, I used Sherrill’s lovely knit flowers tutorial and had me some nice hand sewing time in the car around San Diego.  I need to tack them down some more as they look kind of droopy after the wash.  How do you launder embellished shirts without them going to bits?

I forgot to mention that the fabric is rayon jersey from Elliott Berman that I got when they had their 50% off anniversary sale some months ago.  This is the best quality rayon jersey I’ve used besides the Milly print that I got from EmmaOneSock.  It’s dense and light and drapes ever so nicely and feels like silk against your skin.