Daily Archives: July 2, 2011

Two heads

are indeed better than one at times.

At intervals I have been working with a few ladies from the pants fitting class I took in February.  I didn’t have much luck in the class, and I haven’t had much since then.  Last week though, I rewatched the Threads Fitting DVD on pants and I was inspired to try again.  For a flat seat, they tell you to pin out the excess below the bottom and transfer it to the inseam.  It looked really slick, so I thought, why not?

Well, dear Linda, who has been my main fitting partner had just watched Peggy Sagers’ webcast on jeans (I linked them all because I think there’s something to be gained from each one.  She says a lot of things I think many would disagree with, but her construction methods produce great results and she’s just funny.), and she had instead took out a sort of horizontal dart from the inseam tapering to nothing at the side seams on the front and back. 

Here on me, you can see the beginnings of the Threads alteration on the left and the darty thing on the right.  It may well be that once I did the transfer all those weird wrinkles would go elsewhere, but why fuss, when the darty thing looks SO much better.  It was kind of a break through.  Actually, Peggy Sagers’ whole approach of make a muslin and work with it until the wrinkles go away seems a great deal more intuitive than anything else I’ve seen or tried.  And there’s less guess work involved–how much do you scoop out the back crotch–well, on a flat pattern, it seems like a big old mystery, but if you pinch it out until it looks right, well, it’s not so mystical.

I tweaked the final pants a little, but more on that after I wash out the spit out from them. ;)